|Location--I am located in Southern California in Thousand Palms, which is a couple cities
away from Palm Springs (about 11mi.), bordering Palm Desert and Rancho Mirage.
Pricing--My Chocolates/Lilacs are generally $500, and my "normal" colors are $400, which, if
you've checked around, is a great deal lower than anyone else. I will sometimes go even lower if a
kitten has a slight defect like a visibly crooked nose or misaligned teeth (common in Persians), or if a
kitten has not sold by the time it is 4 months old. I take $100 deposits to reserve a kitten payable
through Pay Pal, or Zelle if your bank is working with that app., which most (30) of the major banks
are. I prefer going through Zelle as there are no fees involved like there are with Pay Pal. Deposits
are non-refundable, so make absolutely sure that the kitten you choose is the kitten you have your
heart set on. Because I also don't do trades if you find a kitten you like better out of a younger litter
later on. And I prefer the balance paid through Zelle or in cash at time of pickup.
Pickup times--I work all night long, and don't get to bed before 6:00am, so pickup times will
have to be 1:00pm or later, but can be any day of the week or on weekends. And I need at least a
day's advance notice, as I need time to give the kitten a bath, print off an instructional insert (which
basically is all the information included here + a little more), and pack up about a weeks worth of
what the kitten is used to eating, to make the transition easier.
Age at which a kitten can go to it's new home--Most of my kittens are ready to
go between 8-10 weeks of age, depending on how well they are eating (with no stomach upsets), and
how well they are using the litter box. I will keep prospective owners updated as to their progress.
The birth dates of my kittens are always listed on the web site (and/or in the Recycler ads), and if you
have a calculator on your computer or phone, you can do the math by just counting 8-10 weeks
forward from the birth date. Please don't ask to take a kitten before it's 8 weeks old, or before it's
ready to go. All kittens mature at different rates. If you have a special occasion like a
birthday/Christmas, and you need a kitten by a certain date, and my kittens aren't ready to go by that
date, then you need to either find a kitten elsewhere, or show the gift receiver a picture of the kitten
and inform them that the gift is going to be belated.
Health Guarantee--With my years of experience working in the animal field, I can generally
tell as well as any vet if a kitten is healthy, as far as appears to the eye. If they are normal size with
good weight, are good eaters, have nice coats, clear, sparkling eyes, and play like maniacs, they are
generally fine. Some people ask for a health guarantee, and I will supply one if requested. The health
guarantee is the normal one that most breeders give that states you have 72 hours to take the kitten to
your vet, and if he/she deems there is anything of a life threatening nature wrong with the kitten, it
can be returned (untreated) for a refund or replacement, whichever we agree upon. BUT, my personal
opinion is, that until they come up with a "Well Kitten Clinic," the vet's office, where they handle sick
animals all day, is the worst place to take a young kitten with an immature immune system.
My cats are all negative for FeLV (Feline Leukemia Virus), FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency
Virus), and PKD (Polycystic Kidney Disease). They were tested long ago, and I have not brought any
new cats into the househod for 15 years. I also have NO fungus (commonly known as ringworm--I
call it the "F" word), or internal or external parasites (fleas, body/ear mites, intestinal
Vaccines--My kittens will be up to date on their shots according to their age when they go to their
new home. I give the first 3 way shot (for Panleukopenia, Rhinotracheitis, and Calici) when they are
8 weeks old, and if they are still here at three months, they will get a second 3 way
vaccination. I do not give the Leukemia vaccine and do not recommend it, unless you have outdoor
cats that the kitten will be exposed to. After that second shot, they will only need a booster every
three years. Cornell University of Veterinary Medicine, ranked number 2 in the world (just below UC
Davis) , and well known for their excellent research, has conducted studies that determined that we
are over vaccinating our animals, and it can do them more harm than good (can cause cancer, etc,).
They recommend only giving boosters every three years to cats, and most vets have accepted this
protocol. You can Google that subject on the web, and find many articles confirming this. Just type
in, "Pets Don't Need Shots Every Year," and you will find a whole page of articles.
Feeding--Since what a cat would be eating in the wild is the healthiest diet, I feed my adults a
homemade raw diet consisting of ground chicken, ground chicken gizzards and hearts, ground chicken
liver, ground chicken necks (for the calcium in the bones), and egg yolks. But because I
know not very many people are going to want to continue with this diet, I mix the raw diet 1/2 and
1/2 with canned food for the kittens, so they will get used to the taste of canned food, and can be
switched over easily. I do not feed dry food, as 99% of the dry foods on the market are very bad for
cats. They have way too much carbohydrate, which can cause multiple health problems (diabetes,
urinary tract issues, fatty liver disease, obesity, etc.). Cats are "obligate" (true) carnivores. They must
eat meat and bone material to survive, as opposed to dogs which are scavenging carnivores/omnivores.
Cats do not need carbohydrate in ANY form (grains, vegetables or fruits). They don't even have the
enzymes to digest them. The small amount of carbohydrate they would be getting in the wild, would
be from the intestinal contents of their prey, and that would be in a predigested form. If you have
been duped into thinking that the grain free dry foods are better than what came before, all the
manufacturers have done is replace the grains with other forms of carbohydrate such as potatoes or
peas, which are even less digestible for cats. Can you imagine a cat in the wild eating a potato or peas,
or any of the other umpteen fruits and vegetables that they are now adding to dry food? So, if you
need a kitten who is eating dry food, because of working long hours or whatever, you need to look
Registration Papers--All my adults are CFA (Cat Fanciers Association) registered, and I will
give registration papers on request. In the past I registered all my litters until I found out that 99%
of the people who buy kittens as pets, do not even ask for registration papers, so I was wasting about
$200 a year for nothing. The papers do not come with breeding rights at the price I quoted at the top
of this page.
Type of Cat Litter and Litter Box to use (at first)--If you are taking a kitten
that is only 8 weeks old, it is recommended to use the clay litter (rather than the clumping litter), until
the kitten is a bit older. Younger kittens have a tendency to sit and step in their poo, and if they lick
the clumping litter off their feet or rear, it can cause an intestinal blockage and be fatal. I just use the
Wal-Mart brand, "Special Kitty," of clay litter in the red 25lb. bag. It is very inexpensive, and most
grocery stores also have their own brand of clay litter. Stater Brother's brand is also inexpensive. It
is best to clean the litter box daily, so a cat doesn't have to walk around in it's own waste. There is a
viral disease known as corona virus which is transmitted through feces. Almost all cats have been
exposed to corona virus and most build up an immunity, but some become carriers. Corona virus can
cause the dreaded and fatal FIP virus if it mutates in the system of a susceptible cat, so the less
exposure to fecal material, the better, especially in a multi-cat household.
To avoid having to change out a whole box of clay litter daily, which wastes a lot of clean litter, what
I do is only put about 1/2" of litter in the bottom of the box, so I can pick up the box and tip it to the
side without the litter spilling out. The spots where the cat has urinated will clump even if they are
almost dry, and I take a spatula (with no holes in it) and remove the wet/or partially dry litter. Then
I add more litter like you would if you were using the clumping litter. And about once a week,
completely disinfect the whole box. My litter boxes are rectangular and aprox. 15" x 18" x 5" . It has
been my experience that most cats do not like using the covered boxes. The reason I am explaining all
this in such detail, is because it is best at first to use what a kitten is used to, so you don't have any
issues from a kitten not wanting to use the box.
Grooming--With the coat the kitten will have as an adult, you will need to get a metal comb with
medium spaced teeth, preferably with a wood handle. A brush will not get down to the skin and you
will end up with mats if you just try to use a brush. Although a "Slicker" brush is good for
getting out small mats in the armpit and groin area, and is also good for the short, dense hair on the
feet/hocks ( Most Persians are very sensitive about having their feet messed with, but they don't object
as much to a slicker brush as they do to a comb). As soon as you've established a loving bond with the
kitten, discipline out any bad behavior, just like you would with a child, as you don't want a fight on
your hands for the rest of the cat's life. They need to be shown who's boss, and that they have to
tolerate grooming, even if they don't like it. And if you groom often (about 2x a week for 15
minutes), so the kitten doesn't get any mats, it may even become a pleasant experience for the both of
you. I don't recommend taking a cat to the groomers, as it is very stressful for them (not to mention
the cost). They are in a strange place with loud blow dryers, loud clippers, barking dogs, and
strangers who may have to handle them roughly, especially if you've let them get matted, which is why
most people take their cats to the groomers. Either that, or they haven't disciplined out any bad
behavior as a kitten, and can't handle the cat as an adult. Plus groomers don't always properly
disinfect their equipment between animals, and the cat can get exposed to God knows what
(Ringworm, etc.). Also, as a result of their short and concave facial features, the tear ducts of most
Persian cats are blocked, causing an overflow of tears from the eyes and an excessive accumulation of
debris. When the normally clear tears come in contact with bacteria, they turn a brownish color
around the eyes and in the grooves beside the nose. So, having watering eyes that stain the face does
not mean the cat is sick, it just goes with the territory with the Persian. (Veterinarians that are not
that familiar with Persians may misdiagnose this as an upper respiratory problem or conjunctivitis
(inflammation of the eyelids). The lighter colors are higher maintenance to keep them looking
presentable, and may need their faces washed daily. So, if you can't handle the extra time it takes to
groom a Persian, perhaps you should consider a short haired, longer nosed breed.
Do I raise my kittens underfoot--No,not until they are using the litter box well.
Persian kittens aren't as clean as people seem to think. They aren't as bad as puppies who you actually
have to train, as they eventually start using the litter box on their own. But between the ages of
about 3 and 6 weeks, you will still find puddles in corners, even if the kittens are confined in a
small area with several little low sided litter boxes. After replacing my carpet twice and installing
tile, and then putting the kittens in my 2 walk in closets and 2 bathrooms, and subsequently having to
replace the wood baseboards and wood paneling underneath the baseboards in all 4 rooms, the kittens
are now kept in large 4' cages until they are using the potty box well. If young kittens are allowed the
run of the house, and feel the urgency to go, but don't have the control to hold it, and are too far
away from a litter box, they will go wherever they happen to be, which could be your carpet, and if
they pick up bad habits they may be hard to break.
Do I Allow Home Visits--Please understand that I am not a pet shop, open set hours, etc.
And for the protection and health of the kittens, and for my own safety, I do not allow home
visitation of my kittens. These kittens are very expensive to raise, and I limit exposure to people other
than myself. They are never handled or viewed until they have had at least their first set of
vaccinations, and most are reserved shortly after their 2-4 week old pictures are posted. I normally
meet people at a Jack in the Box, which is right off the freeway, so they can get right back on the
freeway and be on their way home. If you are interested in one of my kittens, I provide numerous
pictures starting at 2 weeks, and update pictures every 2 weeks thereafter. I have been doing things
this way successfully for at least 10 years. SO, if you are one of those people that insists upon seeing
the cattery conditions, then you need to go elsewhere. Or I can supply you with numerous references
of satisfied kitten buyers. I get a LOT of repeat customers, so I think that may speak for itself.